Buyan Russian Haute Cuisine & Caviar Bar Review

What

Housed within a sprawling maze of conserved shophouses at Tanjong Pagar, Buyan Russian Haute Cuisine & Caviar Bar is about as elusive as its grub. But no one’s going to complain if it translates into an opportunity for the restaurant to exercise its creativity and fine attention to detail by converting the pair of shophouses it occupies into a unique dining destination, its bucolic beauty more of an inspired anachronism than practicability. The first of its shophouses functions as a host for fine dining on its 2nd storey which is overlooked mottled ceilings depicting fine Russian art. For those feeling less rich, the other shophouse accomodates a sitting area for casual dining and a bar with an extensive selection of vodka, a fraction of which remains exclusive to the restaurant.

You may not know it but when you are dining in a restaurant which is the proud owner of the world’s oldest (and most expensively purchased) champagne, it sure feels good. Founder and passionate connoisseur of wine, Julia Sterstyuk, 35, procured the bottle of 1841 Veuve Clicquot for €30,000 (S$49,145) during an auction in Finland in June. The bottle was among a batch of 145 bottles salvaged in July 2010 from a 19th century shipwreck in the Baltic Sea.

In a nod that could only reaffirm the unmatched uniqueness of Buyan Haute Cusine & Caviar Bar, menus are handed out on iPads here, no less. In case you are wondering, there are separate menus for fine dining and casual dining. On both menus, food items are worded in Russian and English with short descriptions. If you are like us, Singaporeans unfamiliar with Russian cuisine because it’s so rare here, a photo of each food item is just a touch away to aid in your decision-making if you are still feeling unsure. It is a thoughtful gesture most welcomed.

The Food

With a menu that is highly influenced by caviar and a more exotic selection of meats, roasted rabbit inclusive, there is definitely an appeal in fine dining for the gastronomically adventurous who also happen to have deep pockets. Fortunately, there are still a decent number of novelties which can be had at reasonable prices if you choose to pull the strings on your purse with the casual dining menu.

The Pirozhki ($12) are curious fried Russian buns that are shaped suspiciously like curry puffs. Coming in threes on a decorated wooden board, each pirozhok comes with a different filling. Buyan offers a minced meat pirozhok, cabbage pirozhok and mashed potato pirozhok. The minced meat pirozhok is fragrant and savoury with little onion bits adding some crunch to the otherwise chewy content while the strips of cabbages in the 2nd pirozhok come macerated in a lightly salted gravy. The mashed potato is also delightfully fluffy with a smooth texture.

If you are still in the mood for sharing, try an order of Khachapuri ($10), a traditional Georgian flat bread that bears an uncanny resemblance to its more celebrated Italian counterpart. Translated literally as cheese bread, Buyan’s version is stuffed with the more uncommon goat cheese which is less brittle when melted and flavoured with only a hint of tartness. For those keen in piquant tastes, a slice of Khachapuri is best enjoyed after a dip into one of Buyan’s many soups or sauces – like a roti prata.

There is great variety of meats on offer as mains but Trout with Nut Sauce ($18) is perfect if you are looking for a less sinful eat or wanting to avoid the grease. Buyan serves a generous chunk which could prove to be a considerable challenge to finish but the delectable meat, moist and tender with a crispy layer of skin suggests a pleasurable experience. The mashed pumpkin and nut sauce are equally healthy accompaniments. Unfortunately, the dollop of nut sauce is too little a portion to leave any impression.

in2it.sg paid for its meal here.

Address 9/10 Duxton Hill, Singapore 089593
Opening Hours Mon to Sat (12 noon to 12 midnight), Closed Sun
Tel 6223 7008
Website http://www.buyan.sg/

Review by Loh Yong Jian