Pengkalan Kempas

Contributed by Andy Gwee
 

I have always been fascinated with history and travel, and I often indulge in both, travelling to the locale of famous historical events. I am especially drawn towards ancient megalithic sites and mysterious stone monuments, including the Stonehenge in England, and Carnac, Southern France, which boasts the most number of standing stones arranged in neat rows. In fact, such megalithic structures are present in virtually every corner of the world - some found scattered haphazardly, numbering from a few stones to hundreds of them, from single standing stones to small groups of standing and fallen stones, in fields, in farms, near the tops of mountains, deep in the jungles, and by the sides of roads.

They appear to be mysterious legacies left behind from ancient times, leaving neither trace of their origins nor clues of their use.

Archaeologists and historians are divided on whether a single culture thrived throughout the entire world in the distant past, or whether many different peoples shared a similar culture around megaliths. These historical wonders have stood on the same spot for countless centuries, or even millennia. Some were however moved to laboratories for study or to museums for display. Others have protection built over and around them, such as at Pengkalan Kempas, a village deep in West Malaysia. Sharing the shelter within the same compound, believed to be an ancient sacred site, is a 15th century tombstone of Sheikh Ahmad Majanu.

Here, three granite megaliths stand out in this group due to their size and unique shapes, towering over several other stones sprawled - apparently fallen - around them.

Averaging more than 1.8 metres (6 feet) in height, they were nicknamed the sword, the spoon and the rudder, by virtue of their resemblance to these recognizable items. On the sword and the rudder lie engravings of unidentified geometrical patterns, while the spoon is unmarked.

Archaeologists have tried in vain to decipher the inscriptions on these stones. They were, typically, unable to shed any light on who brought the stones there, what those engravings mean, and what the purpose of these huge stones.

At best, these experts have made out that the carvings on the sword appear to resemble the head of Kala, a mythical Hindu animal, with outstretched wings of a Garuda, an enormous bird found in Indonesian folklore. The engravings on the rudder are believed to be that of a peacock, withan elephant's trunk above it, and the head of either a horse or a bull below it.
Similar stones, nicknamed "batu hidup", meaning "living stones", can also be found throughout the states of Malacca and Negri Sembilan, as well as other parts of Malaysia.

Seemingly taking centre stage within this shelter beside the megaliths is the massive tombstone of Sheikh Ahmad Majanu, a mysterious figure who lived and died in the 15th century during the reign of Sultan Mansur Shah (1459 - 1477), one of the sultans who ruled during the Malacca Sultanate (1405 - 1511), a glorious period in the history of Malacca and Malaysia. Little is known about this man. However, in front of his tomb is an obelisk with inscriptions on all four sides - in Kawi or Old Javanese script on the northern and southern faces, in Jawi or Arabic on the eastern and western faces. There is also a wrist-sized hole through the centre of this pillar.

Interestingly, the interpretations tell contradictory tales of Ahmad Majanu. The Kawi inscriptions suggest he was a traitor, while the Jawi ones describe him as a hero. A chapter in The Encyclopedia of Malaysia - Early History provides more details on the findings of these ancient writings, such as Ahmad Majanu sustaining a heroic death while fighting for Sultan Mansur Shah, and buried as a Sheikh - the eastern equivalent of being conferred Sainthood. Another version has it that Ahmad Majanu was executed after an unsuccessfully attempt on Sultan Mansur Shah's life.

But as De Casparis pointed out in Early History, if Ahmad Majanu really was a traitor, it is unlikely he would be given the honour of being conferred a Sheikh, with his grave subsequently elevated into a place of worship and veneration.

I decided to visit Pengkalan Kempas for myself to see whether I could form an opinion, or offer any contribution at all towards solving the mysteries which presently appear impenetrable.

Upon arrival, it is apparent that the local authorities prefer a more favourable, yet very different, interpretation of Ahman Majanu. A signboard at the entrance to the site states in Malay and English (no deciphering needed) that Ahmad Majnun was a Muslim theologian who propagated Islam during the Malacca Sultanate, and is believed to be an apostle who died on one of his many journeys. He was subsequently conferred the title of Sheikh, entombed at Pengkalan Kempas, a great honour as this location was considered a sacred religious site since ancient times.

Unable to read any of the languages inscribed on the pillar in front of his grave, I could merely gaze blankly at it. But I did what I believe most visitors would do -- push my arm through the hole running through its centre.

The inscriptions, it seems, make no mention of what this hole was for. But local legend has it that it was used to determine whether a person making an oath was telling the truth. It would magically tighten around the arm of an insincere oath-taker, causing considerable pain. However, Early History says it is more likely the hole might have been made through this pillar simply so that a pole could run through it in order for it to be carried, to be placed where it rests today. I thought of that as a more logical explanation. And that was the only opinion I would form during my visit.

Close to this pillar is another stone, an arched megalith with a carved, crenulated edge. Early History states that the historian John Miksic reported seeing similar stones in West Sumatra, which were used as ceremonial back rests in the 14th century. I, too, noticed those stones during my travels there a few years ago, and was struck by the similarity.

At the other end of the tomb is yet another (what else !) stone: broad, about half my height, and also with engravings. They seemed like several triangles interlocking, criss-crossing one another.

I spent a considerable amount of time walking round and round the tomb of Ahmad Majanu (or Majnun), gazing, and marvelling at its size. I found it imposing and majestic, clearly one befitting a person of great stature. It occupied centrestage in this entire set-up, regardless of what was known, or unknown about him.

Indeed, the main highlight of my visit centred on stones: ancient stones that have mystified historians and archaeologists, as well as the Indian taxi man named John Canady, who drove me there. Understandably, he was initially puzzled why anyone would travel to Malaysia just to look at stones. But having been to Pengkalan Kempas with me, he realized he did not know of the existence of these megaliths despite countless visits to this village in his 20 years of driving a taxi. He was enthralled, following me with wide-eyed wonder as I toured the site. Later, he confided that felt "lucky" to have met me, and would take note of the location of this place to recommend to future visitors to the region.

John would have an uphill task of convincing tourists to pay to be driven a considerable distance to look at a grave and some old stones. After all, I was his first passenger to do so in almost two decades.

Perhaps I could help him, while at the same time, in my own small way make a contribution in the form of this article to make this place known to others, so that other travellers who wish to see something different can go to Pengkalan Kempas.

Maybe one day, one of these visitors will find a clue to unlock the mystery of these stones, something I was far from being able to achieve during my visit. I still have absolutely no clue what this site was used for. I also do not know why exactly I went there. My only consolation is: I at least know where Pengkalan Kempas is.

Useful Information

Location of Pengkalan Kempas

The Pengkalan Kempas Historical Complex is accessible from three major towns.

It is located about 60 kilometres from Malacca, 30 kilometres from Seremban and 23 kilometres from Port Dickson.

Getting There

Buses

Several local buses travel to Pengkalan Kempas from Malacca, Seremban and Port Dickson.

Information of buses and their schedules are available at bus terminals in all three towns.

Taxis

Taxis are also extensively available.

Though taxi rides cost more than buses, they are reasonably-priced, more convenient and much faster. I would recommend chartering a taxi, as the taxi driver may well be John Canady, and it would make his day, or even his decade, to take another visitor to the megaliths at Pengkalan Kempas.

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